Bakuchiol: The Gentle Alternative to Retinol That's Perfect for Sensitive Skin

Retinol has been the star ingredient in anti-aging skincare for years. It’s everywhere, and it’s proven itself—we have to admit that—but it stings, causes redness, and flaking, and isn’t recommended during pregnancy. I’m part of that segment of the population that has an allergic reaction to it.

That’s where nature’s genius comes in, and that’s where bakuchiol steps in: a plant-based active ingredient that promises comparable results with far less discomfort. And honestly, the results are amazing!

Does that mean we should ban retinol altogether? Not necessarily. But for those with sensitive or reactive skin—or who are pregnant—bakuchiol stands out as a gentler and safer option. Here’s what the science says.

Retinol: A Powerful but Demanding Active Ingredient

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. Once applied, the skin converts it into retinaldehyde, then into retinoic acid, the active form that acts directly on the cells.¹

Its anti-aging action is based on two mechanisms. It inhibits the enzymes that break down collagen and stimulates the production of new collagen. The result: reduced fine lines, a refined skin texture, and a more even complexion over the course of several months.

Why Retinol Isn’t Suitable for All Skin Types

Retinol isn’t dangerous for most people, but it’s far from harmless. Three reasons are driving more and more women to seek an alternative.

Irritation

Redness, dryness, flaking, and a tingling sensation are among the most common side effects.¹ For those with sensitive or reactive skin, the adjustment period can last for weeks, and many give up before seeing results. 

Photosensitivity

Retinoids make the skin more sensitive to the sun. Daily sunscreen use becomes mandatory, which complicates their use in the summer or for people who are frequently exposed to the sun.

Pregnancy and Breastfeeding

Vitamin A plays a role in embryonic development. As a precaution, dermatologists recommend avoiding all retinoids during pregnancy, even though absorption through the skin is low.¹ A large Nordic study involving nearly 3.9 million births found no significant increase in birth defects linked to topical retinoids, but the authors note that the data remain limited and that caution is still warranted.^{2, 3}

Regulatory authorities are also increasingly restricting this active ingredient. As of November 1, 2025, the European Union limits retinol to 0.3% in facial care products and 0.05% in body lotions to prevent overexposure to vitamin A. Products must also display a warning regarding vitamin A intake.⁴

Bakuchiol: The Proven Plant-Based Alternative

Bakuchiol is extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, a plant that has been used for centuries in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine. Its chemical structure is completely different from that of retinol, and it does not activate retinoic acid receptors. However, it acts on the skin in a very similar way: it stimulates collagen and inhibits the enzymes that break it down.⁵

The landmark study was published in 2019 in the British Journal of Dermatology. For 12 weeks, 44 participants applied either a 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice daily or a 0.5% retinol cream once daily.⁶ The results: 

• both active ingredients reduced wrinkle area by a comparable amount, approximately 20%;
• bakuchiol improved hyperpigmentation in 59% of participants, compared to 44% for retinol;
• retinol users reported more flaking and tingling.

A 2025 review of seven studies concluded that bakuchiol offers efficacy comparable to that of retinol, with better tolerability, particularly for sensitive skin.⁵ To be fair: these studies remain small (60 participants at most) and short (12 weeks at most), and rare cases of contact allergy have been reported. No clinical trials have yet been conducted in pregnant women; bakuchiol is considered safer due to its mechanism of action, but direct evidence is still lacking.

Babchi, a plant with roots stretching back millennia

The plant from which bakuchiol is derived is called Psoralea corylifolia (now Cullen corylifolium). It is a small annual plant in the legume family, with purple flowers, that grows primarily in India, the Himalayas, and China. Ayurveda calls it babchi, and traditional Chinese medicine refers to it as bǔ gǔ zhī. It has long been used to soothe skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and vitiligo.⁵

Bakuchiol was first isolated from its seeds in 1966. Since then, about 100 other active compounds have been identified in this plant.

What Recent Research Reveals

A similar effect, through a different mechanism

In the laboratory, bakuchiol activates many of the same genes as retinol: those involved in collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, and skin hydration. For several of these, the effect is even more pronounced.⁷

The difference that matters

Retinol activates two retinoic acid receptors, known as RAR-β and RAR-γ. These receptors play a role in fetal development, which explains the caution surrounding retinoids during pregnancy. Bakuchiol, on the other hand, does not activate them. It is this difference that underpins its reputation as a safer active ingredient.⁵ 

Tested on Sensitive Skin

A study followed 60 women with sensitive skin, some of whom had eczema or rosacea. After 4 weeks of using a cleanser and moisturizer containing 1% bakuchiol, all participants saw improvements in their skin: it was smoother, more radiant, and better hydrated. The skin barrier remained intact. Only a few participants with eczema experienced mild tingling.⁸

An Antioxidant Bonus

Unlike retinol, bakuchiol neutralizes free radicals—the molecules that accelerate skin aging. It’s also light-stable, making it suitable for daytime use.⁵

Even more effective when combined

Bakuchiol delivers better results when combined with other antioxidants. A serum combining bakuchiol and Tahitian vanilla extract firmed the skin of 95% of participants in 8 weeks, with tolerance rated as “very good.”⁹ Bakuchiol may even stabilize retinol and reduce the irritation it causes when the two are combined.

Note

Two cases of contact allergy to bakuchiol have been reported in the medical literature. While these remain rare, it’s always a good idea to test the product on a small area of skin before using any new skincare product.

The researchers’ conclusion

According to the review, bakuchiol offers efficacy comparable to that of retinol, with better tolerability and a safer profile. It is particularly suitable for sensitive skin that cannot tolerate retinoids and for people seeking naturally derived active ingredients. Formulas that combine it with other antioxidants appear to be the most promising. During pregnancy and breastfeeding, it is considered a safer option due to its mechanism of action, although clinical evidence is still lacking to confirm this with certainty.⁵

Retinol or Bakuchiol: A Comparison

Sources: 1, 5, 6. 

For whom is bakuchiol the best choice?

Bakuchiol is particularly recommended if:

• your skin is sensitive, reactive, or prone to rosacea;
• you’ve already tried retinol and your skin didn’t tolerate it;
• you’re pregnant, breastfeeding, or planning a pregnancy—after consulting your doctor or midwife;
• you prefer plant-based active ingredients;
• you want an anti-aging product you can use morning and night, all year round.

How to Incorporate It Into Your Routine

• Choose a serum or cream with a concentration of about 0.5% to 1%, which is the concentration used in clinical studies.
• Apply it to clean skin, morning and night, before your moisturizer.
• Keep using sunscreen in the morning: it remains the best anti-aging step, regardless of the active ingredient.
• Test it on a small area before your first use, as you would with any new product.
• Be patient: the first results usually appear after 8 to 12 weeks of regular use. 

In conclusion

Retinol remains an effective active ingredient, but it requires patience, resilient skin, and extra caution in the sun. It should also be avoided during pregnancy. Bakuchiol offers comparable results on wrinkles and dark spots, with much less irritation. For sensitive skin and women who want a gentler routine, it’s a serious, science-backed alternative.

Want to give it a try? Stop by La Boîte à Grains to discover our bakuchiol-based skincare products. The in-store team can help you choose the right product for your skin.

This article is provided for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for the advice of a healthcare professional. If you are pregnant, breastfeeding, or have a skin condition, consult your doctor, pharmacist, or dermatologist.

About the Author

Ophélie Thieblemont, a holistic esthetician, worked as the cosmetics and supplements manager at La Boite à Grains in the Plateau in 2024 and 2025

In-depth knowledge of:

• Cosmetology
• Medical aesthetics
• Nutricosmetics (or cosmofood)
• Aromatherapy

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References

1. Motamedi M. et al. (2021). A Clinician’s Guide to Topical Retinoids. Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery. 

2. Refsum E. et al. (2025). Topical retinoid use in women of reproductive age and risk of major congenital malformations in exposed pregnancies: a Nordic cohort study. British Journal of Dermatology, 194(4).

3. RNZ. Doctors recommend pregnant women avoid retinoids. What’s the evidence?

4. Cosmetics Business. A complete guide to the EU’s new retinol laws.

5. Park S. J. (2025). A comprehensive review of topical bakuchiol for the treatment of photoaging. Journal of Integrative Dermatology.

6. Dhaliwal S. et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoaging. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2). 

7. Chaudhuri R. K. and Bojanowski K. (2014). Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 36.

8. Draelos Z. et al. (2020). Clinical evaluation of a nature-based bakuchiol anti-aging moisturizer for sensitive skin. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 19.

9. Bacqueville D. et al. (2020). Efficacy of a dermocosmetic serum combining bakuchiol and Vanilla tahitensis extract to prevent skin photoaging. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 13.