Sunscreen: Making a healthy, informed choice

Véronique Cousineau; ND, RHN

For many years now, we've known just how important it is to protect our skin from the sun's ultraviolet rays. These rays are closely linked to skin cancer. Sunscreen, when properly applied, is an excellent way to enjoy the warm weather without the risk of burning.

Although sunscreen lotions are an integral part of our summers, the ingredients they contain are controversial. It's time to take stock of the situation, so you can enjoy the sun in complete safety.

Getting to know the ingredients

To begin with, all sunscreens are based on an active ingredient, which can be physical, chemical or a combination of both. Physical ingredients include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. These are minerals which, once deposited on the skin, block ultraviolet rays. To this day, they are considered the healthiest way to protect against the sun.

Chemical agents are numerous and often combined. The most widely used chemical agent is oxybenzone. Several scientific federations have declared that chemical ingredients should not be considered safe and require further research.

Why be wary

Many ingredients used in sunscreens are not tested. In fact, the EWG (Environmental Working Group) has stated that the majority of sunscreens on the market pose health risks.

Several chemical agents contained in sunscreens appear to disrupt the hormonal and endocrine (glandular) systems. According to scientific studies, sex and thyroid hormones are particularly affected. Worrying effects include delayed puberty, disruption of the menstrual cycle, and weakened spermatozoa.

The application of chemical sunscreens to the skin can also cause reactions.

What to avoid

For safe sun protection, avoid sunscreens containing these ingredients:

• Oxybenzone: skin allergies, hormonal imbalances, endometriosis, impairs sperm production;
• Octinoxate: disrupts hormonal and reproductive systems, harms thyroid health;
• Homosalate: disrupts estrogen, progesterone and testosterone production;
• Octocrylene: skin allergies;
• Avobenzone: skin allergies;
• Retinyl palmitate: linked to the formation of carcinogenic skin lesions;
• Parabens, phthalates: endocrine disruptors, immune system toxins;
• Benzophenone: toxic to non-reproductive organs and possibly carcinogenic;
• Methylisothiazolinone: named allergen of the year in 2013;
• Perfumes: skin and respiratory allergies, can cause headaches and migraines.

Mineral rather than chemical

To avoid the risks associated with chemical ingredients, give priority to mineral creams based on :

• Zinc oxide
• Titanium dioxide 

These ingredients provide sun protection without causing health risks. Zinc oxide, a natural antioxidant, also protects against UVA rays. 

Other important criteria

• Sun protection factor (SPF) An SPF sunscreen between 15 and 50 offers excellent protection against UVB rays;
• UVB and UVA rays: a broad-spectrum sunscreen will offer protection against these two types of carcinogenic rays;
• In cream sunscreen particles are not necessarily safe when inhaled. Opting for a cream rather than a spray minimizes the risk of volatilization;
• Whitish appearance Although the more transparent versions are more aesthetically pleasing, they offer less protection against UVA rays.

Take care

Since sunburn causes permanent damage and increases the risk of skin cancer, prevention is the best way to enjoy sunbathing.

• Skin at risk For maximum vigilance, it's best to cover up with appropriate clothing. Babies, the elderly and people with severe burns, cancer or other skin disorders should wear long sweaters and pants, as well as a hat;
• Medications If you are taking medication, your skin may be more sensitive to the sun. Ask your pharmacist about photosensitivity;
• Essential oils Some essential oils make the skin more prone to reddening in the sun. Ask your naturopath when buying essential oils.

Health protection checklist

• Use a mineral sunscreen based on zinc oxide or titanium dioxide;
• Opt for cream rather than spray;
• Avoid the chemical agents listed above;
• Look for UVB and UVA protection;
• Apply sunscreen often and generously;
• Reapply sunscreen after swimming.

Sunburn? Here's how to care for your skin while minimizing damage:

• Apply Aloe vera gel immediately. Repeat three times a day for 5 days;
• Spray witch hazel floral water between applications of aloe vera gel to soothe burns;
• Coat skin with coconut oil before bedtime;
• Take 5,000 mg of vitamin C daily for 2 weeks.

Sources:

• Environmental Working Group (EWG)
• David Suzuki Foundation
• Skin Cancer Foundation