Beauty and skincare: questions to ask yourself for a perfect routine

First and foremost, the skin is the largest organ in the human body, forming an essential barrier between our organism and the outside world.^{1, 5}

Here are a few things to consider

• The epidermis is the superficial layer of the skin, relatively thin and solid.
• Beneath the epidermis lies the dermis
• The dermis comprises 3 layers: the papillary dermis, the reticular dermis and the deep dermis (composed of water, elastin, fibroblasts, glycoproteins and collagen). The dermis provides the skin's support, suppleness and elasticity. It nourishes the epidermis and plays an essential role in healing.
• Collagen in the dermis gives the skin its suppleness, while elastin enables it to regain its shape after being stretched or pinched.
  

Skin beauty and the absence of wrinkles are linked to the proper production of collagen, since skin contains 75% of it!

Since the dermis is a true skin, i.e. it does not renew itself as the epidermis does, it remains the same throughout our lives.^{1, 5}

An adapted routine for different skin types

When it comes to the face, it's important to identify your skin type.

Normal skin

Normal skin is soft to the touch, with tight pores, a velvety, fresh texture, even tone and regular texture. The T-zone (forehead, nose and chin) is barely oily. People with normal skin need a simpler routine.

This type of skin naturally retains optimal hydration and is more resistant to external aggressions. Because it's easy to care for, it tends to be neglected. What's more, it's rare for a person to keep "normal skin" for a lifetime.^{1, 5}

Oily skin

This type of skin produces too much sebum (a natural oil our body produces to keep skin soft and supple), which means it can appear oilier and often has blemishes, blackheads and blackheads. It looks shiny during the day and tends to be over-cleaned and thus aggressed, which further stimulates sebum production.

Please note: Oily skin can become sensitive and dehydrated. In this case, it needs to be moisturized by choosing a light, balancing cream texture that is less nourishing.^{1, 5}

Combination skin

Combination skin tends to be oily on the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) and dry on the cheeks, giving rise to specific needs for each area.^{1, 5}

Dry, dehydrated skin

Dry skin is a type of skin that doesn't produce enough sebum to maintain its natural hydration, and dehydrated skin consequently doesn't contain enough water in its upper layer. Both conditions can lead to rough skin.

Dry skin can be prone to cracking, and this sensitivity problem is conducive to eczema conditions.

Dehydrated skin is a temporary skin condition caused by significant water loss. This can be the result of certain activities, the season, the use of a cosmetic product or even skin care.^{1, 5}

Sensitive skin

Sensitive skin is often dry, sometimes combination and sensitive, or sensitive and dehydrated. This type of skin has a deficient cutaneous barrier, more easily affected by external factors such as cold, heat, sun, wind, hard water, products used or hormones.^{1, 5}

The recommendations for sensitive skin are to simplify care and be patient!^{1, 5}

Mature skin

Mature skin is often drier, with a translucent appearance due to a thinner epidermis (the skin's outer layer). The epidermis tends to sag, especially around the eyes and neck, due to a loss of elasticity caused by a loss of collagen.^{1, 4}

Hormonal changes and skin after menopause

In women, the menopause has a significant impact on skin ageing due to reduced estrogen levels. This can lead to a loss of skin density and structure, making it more fragile and prone to wrinkles. Skin also becomes drier due to reduced sebum production.^{1, 3, 5}

What does the skin need on a daily basis?

Skin: a reflection of our health. When we talk about the health of our skin, there are several important factors to consider, one of which is very important: our lifestyle habits.

It's impossible to talk about our skin without taking into account our daily hydration, the quality of our sleep, our diet, the state of our digestive capacity, our stress management, our weekly physical activity, exposure to second-hand smoke, exposure to the sun including UVA and UVB rays, the age bracket we're in, and so on.^{1, 3, 6, 7 ,8 ,9, 10}

The importance of skin hydration

Water is necessary and has many bodily functions, such as eliminating toxins and providing nutrients that help reduce skin problems such as pimples, blackheads and redness.

It plays a specific role in the production of elastin and collagen, which ensure skin's firm appearance. A lack of moisture creates dark circles under the eyes and extends from the nose to the cheekbones.

Water helps maintain blood volume, which is crucial to skin health.

Skin is made up of 70% water, which ensures its elasticity and radiance.

Drinking water is a simple and effective way to improve the appearance and health of our skin!^{1, 6, 7 10}

A balanced diet for healthy skin

• At least 50% mixed vegetables of all colors
• A plate containing 25% unrefined cereals and/or starches
• 2 to 4 tablespoons of quality oil a day to provide fatty acids
• Nuts and oilseeds for a good source of healthy fats and fiber
• Animal proteins, fish and/or vegetable proteins (tofu, legumes, etc.)
• Fruits and berries for the antioxidants they contain^{1, 10}

Skin and digestive system

The skin and the digestive system are intimately linked. An imbalance in the intestinal microbiota can manifest itself in skin problems such as acne, eczema or psoriasis. A healthy digestive system, with good nutrient absorption, promotes healthy skin.^{1, 8}

Positive effects of sleep on the skin

Sleep deprivation (not enough hours of sleep) and sleep insufficiency (not enough quality sleep) can weaken the skin barrier, affecting its appearance and texture. After a bad night's sleep, dark circles appear in addition to a paler complexion and puffy skin around the eyes. Skin looks dehydrated.^{1, 9}

• At night, skin regenerates 2 to 3 times faster.
• Peak production of collagen and elastin (the fibers responsible for skin firmness) occurs during deep sleep.
• Cutaneous microcirculation is improved, resulting in a rosier, more even and luminous complexion when you wake up.
• A good night's sleep reduces cortisol (the stress hormone), which is known to weaken the skin barrier and cause inflammation, pimples and eczema.
• Etc.^{1, 9}

Physical activity and stress

Physical activity helps to naturally regulate the production of certain hormones, including cortisol (the stress hormone). This reduces its production, which in excess can have harmful effects on the skin (dryness, sensitivity, accelerated ageing, etc.).^{1, 12}

What impact does the environment have on my skin?

When it comes to skin, there are a number of essential factors to consider, such as the variations in the climate in which we live: cold and/or wet winters, biting winds, freezing rain and hot, humid summers.^{12, 13}

All these conditions make Canada one of the harshest places on earth. While our skin is equipped with excellent defense mechanisms here in Canada, it is subjected to a higher frequency of climatic aggressions.^{12, 13}

Excessive exposure to the sun and damage caused by UV rays

UV rays are the main cause of premature skin aging. They break down collagen and promote the formation of wrinkles and brown spots.^{12, 13}

It's worth noting that every day, our skin is subjected to aggressions such as air, pollution, cold, rain, heat, the sun, heating and air-conditioning, and so on.^{12, 13}

Chemical products

The skin is a faithful mirror of what goes on inside the body. Drugs, medications, chemicals - all these elements can alter the appearance, texture and health of the skin, sometimes dramatically. They bring with them oxidative stress, which promotes premature aging and alters the cutaneous barrier, etc.^{12, 13}

Endocrine disruptors

Endocrine disruptors are omnipresent in our environment. They are found in our creams, clothes, cosmetics, detergents, etc.

They can penetrate our skin and interfere with the functioning of the endocrine system. This can have a negative impact on our skin's health, our sleep, our growth, our reproductive system, etc.^{12, 13}

Tobacco

Cigarette smoke reduces the skin's oxygen supply and accelerates its degradation.^{12, 13}

What skincare routine should you adopt?

A simple routine

A simple skin care routine includes cleansing, moisturizing and sun protection, ideally with a gentle exfoliant twice a week.^{1, 4}

Mornings are for moisturizing, while evenings and nights should be devoted to nourishing and repairing.

A more complete routine

Cleanse your face

Whether it's a milk, foam or cleansing solution, the important thing is that it leaves your skin clean. Cleansing removes impurities, sebum, perspiration and other residues to keep skin clean and healthy.^{1, 4}

It's important to cleanse your skin before applying make-up for optimum results. And of course to cleanse or remove make-up in the evening before bedtime.

Tonic lotion

Apply a toning lotion as a complement to cleansing. Toning lotion prepares the skin for moisturizing cream.^{1, 4}

Serum

The lesser-known serum is never used on its own. Instead, it complements the moisturizing cream. It's a concentrate of powerful active ingredients, vitamins and antioxidants, firming agents that reinforce the other treatments. It is more liquid than a cream and penetrates more quickly. It strengthens, stimulates and is applied with the fingertips. Use the one that suits your skin type.^{1, 4}

Eye contour

Eye contour products have a lifting and firming action, while blurring dark circles, wrinkles and fine lines caused by lack of sleep, stress and aging. Apply morning and/or evening to the eye contour area, massaging in gently.^{1, 4}

Moisturizing cream

Skin care products must moisturize without drying. Moisturizing cream helps get rid of dead cells, leaving skin soft and smooth. Well-moisturized skin is better protected against daily aggressions.

The skin care products used can target specific skin conditions for dry or sensitive skin, and will contribute to repair while renewing lipids missing from the protective barrier.^{1, 4}

Exfoliator

A gentle skin exfoliant is used twice a week to remove excess dead skin cells and sebum.^{1, 4}

Which ingredients are best for beautiful skin?

Antioxidants

By fighting free radicals and oxidative stress, antioxidants protect the skin from external aggression and prevent skin aging.

Dietary antioxidants play a major role in maintaining oxidative balance.

• Vitamin C: found in citrus fruits (oranges, lemons, kiwis, etc.).
• Vitamin E: found in walnuts, sunflower seeds, almonds, hazelnuts, etc.
• Zinc: found in meat, fish, legumes, yogurt, etc.
• Selenium: the richest food is Brazil nuts.
• Polyphenols: found in berries such as blueberries, cranberries, raspberries, strawberries, etc.^{1, 2, 4}

Collagen

Collagen plays an essential role in the appearance and health of the skin. It is the most abundant protein in the human body. In fact, skin contains 75% collagen and is responsible for the elasticity, strength and regeneration of all tissues. It also plays a vital role, particularly as the body ages, since its production declines over time.

• In fact, from the age of 21, skin collagen production declines by around 1% per year. This invariably leads to skin thinning and a progressive loss of elasticity.
• Collagen is the skin's main source of firmness, suppleness and radiance. What's more, the absence of wrinkles depends on adequate collagen production.^{1, 2, 14, 15, 16}

Collagen molecules are a large family of proteins that are essential constituents of the human body's support tissues, and are of animal or fish origin.^{1, 2, 14, 15, 16}

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally present in our bodies, especially in the skin, joints and eyes. It acts like a molecular sponge, able to retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water.

This elastic molecule is rich in water and acts as a kind of cement, filling the gaps between cells to ensure their cohesion and reinforce their protection against external aggression. However, with age, the quantity of hyaluronic acid diminishes, leading to tissue dehydration and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.^{1, 16}

As a result, it becomes unavoidable to moisturize the skin from within (the dermis) with the addition of a supplement.

Note that hyaluronic acid has antioxidant virtues, which also give it a protective role against sun damage, including UVA rays.^{1, 2, 16}

In short, hyaluronic acid :

• Maintains skin hydration
• Makes skin plumper, suppler and more elastic
• Reduces fine dehydration lines
• Soothes sensitive or irritated skin
• Accelerates healing (small wounds, acne)
• Suitable for all skin types (even oily and acne-prone)^{1, 2, 16}

Retinol

Retinol, derived from vitamin A, is a key skincare ingredient, known for its anti-aging and corrective efficacy. It works by stimulating cell renewal, reducing the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and imperfections. It also improves skin texture, making it firmer and smoother, while helping to even out skin tone by reducing the appearance of pigmentation spots.

Vitamin E

Renowned for its anti-inflammatory, restorative and protective properties, vitamin E is an indispensable support for sensitive or altered skin, notably due to the sun, painful acne flare-ups, dermatitis, eczema, redness or irritation.

Vitamin E is also an effective antioxidant, helping to delay the skin's aging process. It defends the skin against oxidative stress by acting as a barrier against free radicals.

Jojoba oil

Jojoba oil offers numerous benefits for the skin, including intense hydration, anti-aging properties and soothing action.

Ingredients to avoid

Products tested on animals

Animal testing often causes pain, fear and distress. What's more, these animals are usually killed after the experiments.

Many brands that do not test on animals are also committed to ecological, organic and local practices.¹⁸

Fragrances and allergens

Choose a product without fragrances, allergens or synthetic colorants to better respect your skin, reduce unforeseen reactions and focus on the real effectiveness of your skincare product.¹⁹

Perfumes (even natural ones) and common allergens can cause :

• Redness
• Itching
• Tingling
• Burning sensation
• Skin rash¹⁹

This is particularly true for babies, the elderly and people with sensitive skin.¹⁹

Alcohol and parabens

What about ingredients such as alcohol and parabens often used in skin care products?

Alcohol (ethanol, denatured alcohol) is often used to help penetrate active ingredients or to dry out oily skin. In small quantities: acceptable. In large quantities: can dry out and disrupt the cutaneous barrier.^{20, 21}

Parabens (methylparaben, propyparaben, etc.) are preservatives effective against bacteria and mold. They are suspected of disrupting the hormonal system (endocrine disruptors). Their use is controversial, and some people avoid them as a precaution.^{20, 21} The principle of minimum ingredients for maximum gentleness.

Beauty and skin care: Revelox products

The Kähma range

Kähma is a range of vegan, fragrance-free, alcohol-free and paraben-free skincare products made in Quebec by Revelox. The products contain mainly hyaluronic acid (often with several molecular weights), ceramides, peptides and natural oils such as avocado or jojoba oil.

Moisturizing anti-aging serum

It promises long-lasting hydration, improved texture, protection against oxidative stress and support for healing, thanks to ceramides, peptides and hyaluronic acid with three molecular weights.

A cosmetic product containing peptides and three-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid is formulated to offer moisturizing, firming and anti-aging action by acting on different skin layers.

This serum has a light, fast-penetrating texture, and is suitable for mature skin or skin at the beginning of the aging process.^{1, 4, 22, 30}

Remodeling oil serum

Formulated with a complex of plant oils (jojoba, argan, hemp, ahiflower (source of omega 3 and 6), fat-soluble vitamin C (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate), CoQ10).

• Jojoba: protective, balancing, regenerating
• Argan: Antioxidant, firming, healing
• Nourishes, smoothes and firms the skin, stimulates collagen, brightens the complexion and reduces wrinkles and fine lines.^{1, 4, 23, 30}

Moisturizing toner

Natural formula contains hyaluronic acid, olive squalane, schisandra extract and ceramides.

Olive squalane is a plant-derived cosmetic ingredient derived from olive oil, known for its moisturizing and emollient properties on the skin. It helps maintain skin hydration by forming a protective barrier that reduces water loss.

Ceramides are essential lipids, or fats, found naturally in the skin. They play a crucial role in maintaining a healthy skin barrier and in skin hydration.

Designed to soothe, reduce redness and even out skin tone, while reinforcing the cutaneous barrier.

Gentle formula, compatible with sensitive skin, and can be combined with other Kähma products.^{1, 4, 17, 24, 30}

4 in 1 Eye Contour Cream

Contains a three-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid complex, antioxidants and repairing ingredients.

Designed to reduce wrinkles, dark circles and puffiness, while providing deep hydration and firmness via patented, fragrance-free plant extracts.^{1, 4, 16, 25, 30}

Anti-aging cleansing gel

Gently cleanses, moisturizes, smoothes and preserves skin balance thanks to hyaluronic acid, jojoba oil and vitamin E.

Formulated for gentle cleansing:

• Removes make-up, sebum and impurities without drying the skin.
• Smoothing and firming effects: Promotes visible reduction in imperfections and tightens pores for an even complexion.^{1, 4, 17, 26, 30}

Regenerating face cream

• Enriched with enbakuchiol (a plant-based alternative to retinol), tremella mushrooms and hyaluronic acid.
• Intensely moisturizes, regenerates, evens skin tone and helps reduce wrinkles, pigmentation spots and dilated pores.
• Apply morning and evening. Combine with a serum for best results.^{1, 4, 17, 27, 30}

DermaLUX

DermaLUX from Revelox is a powdered nutritional supplement designed to work from the inside out on skin, hair, nails and joints.

Ingredients and benefits:

• Collagen: Promotes skin firmness, tissue regeneration and slows the signs of aging.
• Vitamin C: brightens complexion, reduces blemishes and evens skin tone; stimulates collagen: improves firmness and elasticity. Antioxidant: protects against external aggressions (sun, pollution); Promotes healing: supports skin regeneration.
• Vitamin C and Coenzyme Q10: powerful antioxidants: Protect against aging. Radiance: evens skin tone, reduces dark spots. Firmness: Stimulates collagen, reduces wrinkles. Repair: Reinforces the skin barrier.
• Hyaluronic acid: Acts internally to maintain tissue hydration, with plumping, healing and anti-inflammatory effects.
• Silica: Blood contains 8.3 mg of silica per liter, an often overlooked mineral that improves calcium binding and strengthens hair and nails. With age, the amount of silica present in the skin and arteries tends to decrease. Silica improves collagen quality.^{2, 3, 28, 30}
• Zinc: Zinc is an essential trace element that plays several important roles in skin health. Anti-inflammatory (helps calm acne, eczema and redness). Antibacterial: limits acne-causing bacteria. Promotes healing: supports skin repair and collagen production. Sun protection: zinc oxide acts as a sunscreen. Regulates sebum: ideal for oily or acne-prone skin.^{2, 3, 28, 30}
• Silica and zinc duo: Strengthens skin: improves elasticity, firmness and texture. Promotes circulation: rapidly regenerates tissues. Slows aging: stimulates collagen production and protects against free radicals. Reduces acne and blemishes: zinc purifies, silica soothes. Also strengthens nails and hair^{1, 2, 3, 4, 17, 28, 30}

PureHA Advanced Formula

PureHA product is available in 500 ml and 1 liter liquid formats. It contains hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed marine collagen, silica and hyaluronic acid. Provides deep hydration and skin support.

By restoring hyaluronic acid levels that decline with age, PureHA helps fill in wrinkles, firm skin and maintain a youthful appearance.

Users report reduced joint pain and improved mobility, even on waking (fingers, ankles, hips), often after just a few days' use.

The hyaluronic acid-collagen-silica combination works synergistically to maintain healthy connective tissue, essential for joints.^{14, 15, 16 ,17 ,29, 30}

In conclusion

The goal is not to change our appearance, but rather to support our aging process as best we can!

About the author

Marie Couture, Certified Naturopath

Contact information for Marie Couture: 

• Visit profile LinkedIn of Marie Couture
• Email: marieclabellevie@hotmail.com
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References

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