Understanding your skin with the Ayurvedic approach: holistic beauty from the inside out

In a world where skincare is often reduced to topical products, Ayurveda offers a unique perspective: beauty is the reflet of inner balance. This traditional Indian medicine, over 5000 years old, teaches that our skin is the mirror of our overall health.

The first step is to understand our Ayurvedic constitution, called "dosha", so we can adapt our lifestyle, diet and skincare to reveal radiantly healthy skin.

The Sanskrit word "dosha" means "that which can become unbalanced".

The doshas are the three vital energies or biological forces that govern the body and mind, in other words, that govern bodily and mental functions. They result from the combination of the 5 elements (earth, water, fire, air, ether):

• Vata (Air + Ether): movement, vital souffle, nervous system.
• Pitta (Fire + Water): transformation, digestion, metabolism.
• Kapha (Water + Earth): stability, structure, lubrication.

Each person is born with a unique constitution (prakriti), a unique blend of these doshas that determines temperament, morphology, digestion and overall health.

• When they are in balance = vitality, beautiful skin, good digestion, mental clarity.
• When out of balance = physical symptoms (acne, dryness, heaviness...), emotional symptoms (anxiety, anger, lethargy...), and long-term illness.

The doshas are the energetic codes of our body and mind. Each individual has a unique combination of these doshas, determining his or her skin type and specific needs. Understanding your dosha enables you to adapt your diet, lifestyle and treatments (such as Abhyanga, which we'll talk about later) to stay balanced and radiant from within.

4 reasons to adopt the Ayurvedic approach for your skin

1) Personalization

Unlike universal approaches, Ayurveda considers the individual as a whole, offering tailor-made solutions.

2) Prevention

Balancing the doshas prevents the appearance of skin imbalances.

3) Sustainability

Use of natural, organic and environmentally-friendly ingredients.

4) Overall well-being

By treating the root cause of imbalances, we improve not only our skin, but also our mental and physical health.

Identifiez votre type de peau ayurvédique

Vata (Air and Ether)

Associated with movement, Vata is light, dry and cold. Vata dominance can lead to dry, fine and wrinkle-prone skin.

• Characteristics: Skin fine, dry, rough, prone to chapping.
• Needs: Intense hydration, warmth, regular routine.
• Recommended care: Nourishing oils such as sesame or almond, rich creams, gentle massages.
• Suitable nutrition: Warm, moist, nourishing foods such as soups, stews and wholegrain cereals.

Pitta (Fire and Water)

Linked to transformation, Pitta is hot and intense. Excess Pitta can cause inflammations, redness and acne.

• Characteristics: Sensitive, hot skin, tendency to redness and inflammations.
• Needs: cooling, soothing, sun protection.
• Recommended care: Soothing ingredients such as aloe vera, neem, sandalwood.
• Suitable nutrition: Refreshing, sweet and bitter foods such as green vegetables, sweet fruit and dairy products.

Kapha (Water and Earth)

Represents structure and stability. Kapha is heavy, damp and cold. Imbalance can lead to oily, thick skin prone to clogged pores.

• Characteristics: Thick, oily skin, dilated pores, tendency to pimples.
• Needs: Stimulation, purification, lightness.
• Recommended care : Gentle exfoliants, clay masks, light oils such as jojoba.
• Suitable nutrition: Light, spicy, dry foods such as legumes, raw vegetables, stimulating spices.

Abhyanga: an ancestral ritual for overall health

Abhyanga, which literally translates from Sanskrit as "oil unction", is a traditional massage derived from Ayurveda, the 5,000-year-old Indian medicine. More than a simple treatment, it's a ritual of well-being in which warm oils are applied to the whole body in fluid, enveloping gestures. This practice aims to deeply nourish the body, soothe the mind and rebalance vital energies. 

Its benefits are manifold: it improves blood and lymph circulation, promotes the elimination of toxins, reduces stress and nervous tension, while offering supple, radiant skin. Abhyanga is thus recognized as a precious ally for harmonizing body and mind on a daily basis.

Abhyanga recipes adapted to your dosha

Whatever oil you use, I recommend that you heat it in a small glass and immerse it in a bowl of very hot water. Allow it to warm up gradually for 10 minutes, then add the essential oils.

Warning: never heat directly in a saucepan or microwave, as this would be dangerous and would destroy the properties of your oil.

Vata (air + ether)

Profil: thin, variable energy, tendency to cold, dry skin, anxiety, insomnia.

Sesame oil (very nourishing and warming) or sweet almond oil for extra softness.

Additions :

• 1 drop each of essential oils: lavender, sweet orange, cardamom
• A few drops of vitamin E (protects dry skin)

Benefits: calming, warming, grounding.

Pitta (fire + water)

Profil: sensitive skin, redness, internal heat, intense temperament, strong digestion.

Coconut oil (refreshing) or jojoba oil.

Additions :

• 1 drop each of its essential oils: rose, sandalwood, jasmine, sweet mint
• Rose hydrosol (as a mist after massage)

Benefits: refreshes, soothes, balances inflammations.

Kapha (earth + water)

Profil: solid build, oily skin, tendency to water retention, sluggishness, heaviness.

Mustard oil (stimulating and warming, but beware of strong odor) or sesame oil lightened with a bit of jojoba oil.

Additions :

• 1 drop each of its essential oils: ginger, rosemary, eucalyptus, lemon
• Option: add a pinch of turmeric powder to the oil (filtrer well afterwards).

Benefits: energize, activate circulation, lighten.

And what about nutrition?

Vata (air + ether)

Skin tendency: dry, fine, dull skin, early wrinkles.

Preferred:

• Warm, creamy, nourishing foods: soups, dhal, porridges.
• Good fats: ghee, sesame oil, avocado.
• cooked vegetables (carrots, sweet potatoes, squash, beet).
• Sweet, juicy fruit: mango, pear, ripe banana, berries.
• Mild warming spices: cinnamon, ginger, cardamom.

Limit cold raw vegetables, dry salads, coffee, too many dry legumes and spicy foods.

Vata beauty tip: a spoonful of ghee in the morning on wholemeal bread nourishes the skin from within. And I even tried ghee as a face mask during my last post-partum period, which left me with very dry skin, resulting in suppler, more luminous skin.

Pitta (fire + water)

Skin tendency: sensitive skin, redness, acne, inflammation. To be preferred:

• Refreshing, hydrating foods: cucumber, zucchini, tender green salad.
• Sweet, fresh fruits: melon, watermelon, cherries, pomegranate.
• Light cereals: basmati rice, oats, quinoa.
• Mild proteins : chickpeas, tofu, coral lentils.
• Calming spices : coriander, fennel, green cardamom, sweet turmeric.
• Soothing oils : coconut oil, linseed oil.

Limit spicy foods, alcohol, coffee, fried foods, excess tomatoes and raw onions.

Pitta beauty tip: drink coconut water or an infusion of coriander to soothe the skin from within.

Kapha (earth + water)

Skin tendency: thick, oily skin, congestion, dilated pores. Prefer:

• Light, dry and spicy foods: vegetable soups, dry legumes.
• Astringent fruits: apples, pomegranates, berries, cranberries.
• Bitter, pungent vegetables: kale, radish, broccoli, spinach.
• Stimulating spices: ginger, black pepper, cloves, turmeric.
• Green tea, detox infusions.

Limit dairy products, sweets, fried foods, fatty or heavy foods, excess wheat/pasta/bread.

Kapha beauty tip: start the day with warm lemon water + ginger to activate your circulation and brighten your skin.

In conclusion

• Vata = nourish and moisturize from within.
• Pitta = refresh and soothe.
• Kapha = lighten and stimulate.

Adopting the Ayurvedic approach to understanding and caring for your skin means embracing a holistic vision of beauty. By balancing your doshas through the right diet, personalized skin care and a conscious daily routine using natural ingredients, you'll promote healthy, radiant skin. More than just a beauty routine, it's a true art of living in harmony with yourself.

For me, sticking to these rituals has helped me to improve my sleep, the appearance of my skin such as redness and scaling, and its luminosity. I recommend these simple tips to anyone, especially with the arrival of autumn.

"To know your prakriti (constitution) is to know your true nature, and to live in harmony with it is the essence of Ayurveda." - Robert Svoboda (Prakriti: Your Ayurvedic Constitution, 1998).

About the author

Ophélie Thieblemont holistic esthetician, has worked as cosmetics and supplements manager at La Boite à Grains du Plateau in 2024 and 2025

In-depth knowledge of :

• Cosmetology
• Medical aesthetics
• Nutricosmetics (or cosmetofood)
• Aromatherapy

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References

Bibliography: Vasant Lad. Textbook of Ayurveda, Vol. 1: Fundamental Principles. Albuquerque: Ayurvedic Press. Vasant Lad. The Complete Book of Ayurvedic Home Remedies. New York: Harmony. Robert E. Svoboda. Prakriti: Your Ayurvedic Constitution. Twin Lakes, WI: Lotus Press.